To answer my friend’s question: people are freaking out about pants because pants are the final frontier in directional fashion. In this anything-goes era that privileges micro-trends—neon one month and Raf Simons-inspired graphics the next—and personal style over sweeping ideaslike hem lengths and silhouettes, pants are the only thing that can divide or unite an audience. This is, in part, practical: pants are probably the most utilitarian part of an outfit. Like, I guess you could say that legally, you have to wear pants. You don’t need a sweater, or a jacket, or even a crossbody bag (I know!), the way you need pants. Any tweak to a pant, therefore, feels more radical than messing with proportions or color on a jacket, or a sweater, or socks. Take a look at the e-commerce platform of your choice. The weirdest (and in my humble opinion, best) stuff: all pants.
Of course there are outliers—the Vuitton harnesses, for example, felt revolution-adjacent, but harnesses were an invention rather than an evolution of a previously recognized form. (An invention by Helmut Lang, by the way, who seems to be responsible for every workwear-adjacent trend that designers from Virgil Abloh to Demna Gvasalia have revived over the past five years.) Again: you don’t need a harness like you need pants. And much wilder than Timothée Chalamet’s harness? His unrelenting commitment to an unusual, Haider Ackerman-inspired style of tucking in your pants.
Like everything else in clothes today, there is no “correct” pant. The pants that started kickstarted the high-waisted jeans trend in 2015, Rachel Comey’s Legion Jeans, didn’t lead to a ritual dismissal of every other kind of jean, as trends once did, but rather a wave of relief for wealthy Brooklyn matriarchs, who seem to wear those jeans, or some take on them, exclusively. Gone are the days when Hedi Slimane could hand down a skinny jean mandate. But pants, which involve a level of commitment, a kind of daring, that no other article of clothing can match, are nonetheless the final frontier in directional fashion. Think about Flea’s stuffed animal pants, also known as the #1 Pants of All Time. Flea would’ve just been a guy with a weird thing for stuffed animals if the piece had just been a sweatshirt. But as pants? They made Flea an icon.
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