Taking on the big boys in Milan, a trio of daring menswear labels are pointing the way forward
A Suit-and-Coat Renaissance Massimo Piombo
“I want to create the new glamour for the new generation,” says Massimo Piombo, the mad designer whose beautifully constructed, fantastically louche fall collection has just arrived in boutiques like New York's influential Dover Street Market. To locate this glamour, Piombo swans around the globe—boating off the Sicilian coast, exploring tiny villages from Peru to Indonesia—searching for inspiration. “From each country,” he says, “we keep the best.” Piombo's romantic lifestyle makes its way into fabrics woven in small-scale mills, which ensure quality—and scarcity. The resulting clothes are unapologetically dandyish and define a new, brash form of luxury.
“The dream is not financial. The dream for me is to give people the opportunity to live in reality, but with a spicy touch, like garlic.”
—Massimo Piombo
Italian Peacocks Do It Best Salvatore Piccolo
A sartorial radical, Piccolo plays with snap buttons, band collars, denim constructions, eye-crossing prints, and color combos so unusual that they absolutely shouldn't work—which makes it that much more impressive that we absolutely can't look away.
Rock-Star Cobblers Put Their Best Foot Forward Barbanera
Founded by two sets of brothers in their 20s, Barbanera creates at the intersection of rock 'n' roll and bench-made shoes. It mixes leather and denim. Puts killer black suede on a half boot. It's traditional construction—just kicked way, way up.
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