Left, Urban Outfitters; right, Vetements
Vetements vs. Urban Outfitters
A decade or so ago, Urban Outfitters sold adult humor joke toys and ironic "Jesus is my homeboy" tees, cheap jeans, and trucker hats. But over the past few years the chain has evolved into a litmus test of the hottest streetwear trends, most notably everyone's current obsession with all things '90s sportswear (see: all things Adidas, Fila, Reebok, or Nautica). And they're doing it as well, and in lock step, with the fashion industry's hottest labels like Gosha Rubchinskiy (who has a forthcoming Fila collaboration) and Vetements (who's teamed up with the likes of Champion, Levis, Reebok, and more) . But the difference between Urban Outfitters and some of these fashion brands is that they are still charging high-end prices. That in mind, yesterday Urban Outfitters' of-the-moment-ness turned into what looks like a flat-out troll when they released a $39 version of Vetements' controversial $900 Snoop Dogg T-shirt. (The vintage version of the original 1993 T-shirt, if you can find one, typically sells for around $500. )
It's no secret that Vetements' is a brand built on hype, though the free market dictates that if people are willing to pay for something, then inherently it must be worth the price they paid. But Vetements' is also predicated on the idea that buying their version of a Champion hoodie or Snoop Dogg T-shirt is what makes it better, and thus the person wearing the item superior. (Spoiler alert: This philosophy fuels the high-fashion industry.) So, one has to wonder if Urban Outfitters' version will undercut that hype and devalue the "cool factor" of Vetements version. There's history behind this pattern: A decade ago, Joy Division's Unknown Pleasures album cover went from the prestigious collections of Undercover, Raf Simons, and Supreme to every mall in America, and quickly became a scarlet letter of watered-down hipsterdom.
There's an important distinction to be made between the garments made by fashion legends like Raf Simons, which utilized the Peter Saville-designed graphic for beautifully-designed fishtail parkas, sweaters, and more, and Vetements' recreated vintage T-shirt. Nonetheless, the trickle down effect of iconic music graphics is nothing new, even if most can agree $900 T-shirts probably aren't necessary in anyone's life or credit card statement. At the end of the day, if you liked the Vetements T-shirt, now's your chance to scoop it up on the low. Chances are it won't be long before it becomes over-saturated, anyway.
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