NBA Style God Walt "Clyde" Frazier Talks Custom Suits, Sneakers, and Athletes at Social Activists

The two-time NBA champ and New York City icon talks custom suits, why his Puma sneakers have endured for forty years, and who he thinks is actually stylish in the league today.

To the youngest generation of NBA fans, Walt "Clyde" Frazier might just be another NBA commentator on TV in crazy suits. They're not wrong: Just last season, Frazier could be spotted in tailored offerings ranging done up in red cow print, zebra patterns, and bold (even for HDTV) canary yellow. But to a certain generation, Frazier is just known as "Clyde," living legend. He was part of the last New York Knicks team to win an NBA Championship—which sadly for Knicks fans was all the way back in 1973—and his two titles have rightly earned him the title of "greatest Knicks player ever."

He's also an all-time style legend, thanks to his penchant for out-dressing fellow athletes and famous guys. Since being drafted fifth overall by the Knicks in 1967, Clyde quickly became known for his array of black turtlenecks, gold chains, capes, and big hats—the latter of which earned him the "Clyde" nickname in the first place. (His teammates told him his wide brim hats made him look like Warren Beaty in the 1967 classic Bonnie & Clyde.) Clyde's other signature style move was to drive around New York City in a Rolls Royce. It's safe to say he's a man who never really minded the added attention that comes with bold style choices.

But Frazier's impact on professional basketball goes beyond the bragging rights that come with championship rings; he's the man to thank (or blame) for the big business that is baller-endorsed sneakers. Before 1973, when Frazier signed a deal with Puma, players didn't get paid to wear sneakers—the companies simply gave them the kicks for free, and there weren't many styles to choose from. (Back then players were still wearing Chuck Taylors to actually play basketball.) But Puma came to Frazier with a radical idea—not only would they pay him to wear their shoes, but they were offering to let him design a sneaker, too. After seeing the newly-released Puma Suede, Clyde decided it had the comfort he needed on the court, but the style to be worn off of it, too. A few tweaks and the name "Clyde" printed on the shoe's side later, and the Puma Clyde was born.

At the time, suede sneakers were not only rare for a basketball shoe, but sneakers in general. Sneakers were for horsing around and getty dirty, not precious pieces to be protected and cherished like your best dress shoes. But between the Puma Suede and Clyde, the idea of keeping ones sneakers as clean as the day they left the box became a trend that continued through the era of Reebok Pumps, Air Jordans, Air Force 1s, and now, everything from Yeezys to $500 designer styles.

It's not a stretch to say that without Clyde, Russell Westbrook, Dwyane Wade, or LeBron James wouldn't be using arena tunnels as their impromptu fashion runways. And though they each have their own unique way of wearing the latest designer gear, Clyde Frazier remains in a league of his own thanks to his endless collection of custom-made clothing and fearless style choices that make even Westbrook look conservative. We spoke to the hall of famer about his bold wardrobe, the state of professional basketball and players today—including Knicks' star Carmelo Anthony—and why athletes speaking out against police brutality isn't enough.

How did your relationship with Puma begin?
Well back then players didn't get paid to wear shoes. You got free shoes, but they didn't pay you. So they offered me money to wear them, but when they first came to me they had the "Basket," which was leather, heavy, and stiff. I told them you can't pay me enough to wear this. So they said that I could help them design the new one.

How did you develop the Clyde, then?
At that time they had just come out with the Puma Suede, and I told them to make it lighter and more flexible.

Have you watched the Netlfix show The Get Down? One of the main characters is known for how clean his Puma Suedes are.
Back then, the guys wouldn't wear them in the rain, they took care of them. Unlike the Jordans, your parents would make you save your own money to buy them. You're talking $20 back in the '70s. Parents made their kids save up, so they cherished them, and didn't take them for granted. A lot of kids have very profound memories of their Clydes. It became a style shoe, like, I was in the park with my black fur coat draped over my shoulders with my Clydes on, and so the kids saw that I was wearing them as a style shoe, too and it caught on. It wasn't just a basketball shoe.

What's your opinion on sneaker culture today? Every week, kids are trying to get the newest, coolest sneaker...
It just shows you how capricious the sneaker industry is. You're hot today but tomorrow someone else is moving up. But when I retired, the breakdancers started wearing the [Clyde] shoes. And then the retro craze came along and they brought it back again, so it's survived for 40 years.

In a 2013 GQ interview you said the coolest thing style-wise growing up were pants with no back pockets. Why was that considered so cool?
I don't know, the guys just thought having pants with no back pockets was a big deal. I think they used to cost, like, $25. Obviously I didn't have money to buy them, but all the guys were supposed to look sharp.

So they didn't have anything in their front pockets, either?
Some of them would have a wallet or something, but no back pockets. And Easter was a big deal because they'd come out with some type of gaberdine, there was a new style every year for suits. My uncle used to buy me a suit for Easter. Back in those days, suits used to come with two pairs of pants. In different fabrics. Back then my style was pretty basic black, gray, nothing with a lot of pizazz.

Is there a particular Easter Sunday look you remember from your childhood?
There was one year where I wore a light blue suit. It was pretty sharp.

What's the one thing your most excited to wear this Fall? Have you purchased any new threads?
I have a batch of suits at Mohan's, which is my tailor [in New York City.] I have 14 suits that should be done now. These are ones I designed—I got the fabrics, I picked the cuts, some of them have a shawl collar, others a peak collar, some are two-button fronts...I have kind of a tuxedo-type front, like kind of spread out in the front rather than coming together. I'm curious to see how those suits turned out, man. I had some greens and all different types of colors.

All of your suits are custom?
Yeah, they're custom. My guy at Mohan's does my suits, my shirts, but my ties are done a lot of the time down in Soho.

A lot of the guys [in the NBA] now don't have my expertise. I've been in New York for 40 years. This is the mecca for fashion.

Have you always had your clothes custom made? Was there ever a point where you've bought clothes from designer brands?
Well, being big and tall has been frustrating. I found once I could get it made, I didn't have to be disappointed as much.

A lot of the guys in the NBA now wear designer clothes. Have you ever thought about asking them for their big and tall sources?
I wouldn't wear those because of the colors. I like mixing unusual combinations of colors and patterns that people wouldn't normally put together. When I go shopping, I ask the guy, "Show me something you think no one would wear." A lot of the guys now don't have my expertise. I've been in New York for 40 years. This is the mecca for fashion.

What are you planning to wear for your first night [as a commentator] at Madison Square Garden this year?
If they're ready, for sure. But if not, I still have a lot of the other ones I made last year. Like this one I'm wearing, usually it would just be made in the same fabric [a black fabric with embroidered gold pattern], but I had them put a black sleeve on it. It gave it a different look.

There's an iconic photo of you [seen left] wearing a hat, black turtleneck, and cape. Would you say that's your best outfit ever?
Yeah that was one of my signatures. I had on a gaucho hat, and I had a $20 gold piece around my neck with the gold chain. That was a unique...I don't know how I came up with that one. I remember I wore it to a Stevie Wonder concert at The Garden. That was the first time I broke it out and people mobbed me.

How do you feel about the way people dress today?
In the '70s, there was a lot of individuality. Even look at the nicknames. "Clyde," "Pearl," all of these nicknames. Today these guys have no nicknames. Look at LeBron, they call him "The King," but what is that? Steph Curry, James Harden, Dwyane Wade, look at any of the superstars, they have no nicknames. I think their style is similar too. Most of them have stylists, too. I like doing my own shopping. I spend months in the offseason looking for fabrics. I go on 39th St. between 7th and 8th avenue, and I just walk into all the fabric stores. I might do that for months before I find a fabric I really like. The 14 suits I just bought, that's how I did it. I do it every day. Sometimes I come down here on Delancey and look around for fabrics, shirts, or suits. That's where I got a lot of the cow print fabric, leopard fabric, Zebra for my suits, at Zarin's on Orchard and Grand.

How have you seen style change in New York?
It's very casual. Back in the '70s I would go to fifth avenue, and if I saw someone wearing something—you know there was no phone back then to take pictures—I would just run up to them and ask them about it. Now on fifth avenue it's all jeans and T-shirts. No one dresses up, unless they're going to a Broadway play, and then they still might not even dress up.

Have pride in the way you dress, the way you talk, the way you walk, the way you carry yourself. Discipline is the thing that makes you a champion.

Is there anyone in your life that can tell you what to wear or what not to wear?
No. But I get a kick out of what people say about me. In the latter part of my career I stopped reading the paper, because people were criticizing me. So, now, when I put something on, I never read the reviews, whether they're good or bad.

But there's not a person you consult when picking fabrics or anything?
I hear a different drummer. When I first wore the cow suit, I wouldn't wear the pants. And then one day, I wore the pants, and everyone loved it.

You've said that you like the dress code in the NBA. Do you still like and why?
Yeah, I think it was long overdue. These guys are millionaires, so they should look like millionaires when they go to work. They stay at the Four Seasons, Ritz Carlton, so they should create a style that is with that. The thing about basketball players is they look like models, tall and slim. So no matter what they put on they will look good. At the draft a lot of the guys are into dressing, and outdressing each other, but when they travel they're regularly in warm-up suits. I don't hang out with the players, so I don't usually see them, but when I see Wade and LeBron they look good.

I think Allen Iverson was the reason [former NBA Commissioner] David Stern implemented the dress code, but growing up I always liked his style.
He brought in the cornrows and all that, but his dress was very casual. Mostly warm-ups.

Do you think he had his own style though?
Yeah, everyone credits him with changing the style and culture of the league with his hair. But in the '70s, there was MoTown. When Smokey Robinson made an appearance, he wore a suit and tie. He was an idol so we emulated him. When I came to the Knicks, everyone wore a suit every game. Today, these guys are enthralled by the rappers, so they dress like rappers. Music and the NBA have always been intertwined.

How do you think the Knicks are going to perform this year?
The team is rejuvenated. All the Knick fans are very excited, all of my friends are hitting me up for tickets already. No one wanted tickets last year. But Knick fans are so loyal, they just need a little hope and they go nuts. And The Garden is still the most invigorating place. I owe my two rings to the fans.

Do you believe the Warriors are a lock to win it all?
Unless Jesus and the 12 disciples show up, I don't see any way they can lose. The only thing that can stop them is them and their egos. But I don't think that will happen, because Durant went there knowing the situation. You've gotta be a part of the team.

What did you think about Durant joining the Warriors?
I hated it. I just can't see "If you can't beat 'em, join 'em." I would have never joined the Celtics. I wanted to kick their butts. I find it hard to believe he did that, or why he wouldn't try to build a legacy in OKC, or even New York or L.A.. So now I have no respect if he wins a ring. They were gonna win without you, man. It's not going to enhance his legacy, it tarnishes it. I have less respect for him now as a player.

Recently, Carmelo Anthony has been quite vocal in speaking out against police brutality and has compelled other athletes do the same. What do you think about that?
It's the evolution of him. It's a metamorphosis. He's a good businessman, very hands-on with his business. Now we're seeing it in basketball, too, he's becoming more of a leader like LeBron.

Is it the responsibility of the players to speak about social and political issues?
Not really. I think it's overrated. Just because a guy is a superstar athlete doesn't mean he's a civil rights advocate. People look at it that way, but it's not their forte. Everyone has a forte, and it's not theirs. They don't have that type of leadership quality where they can step out of the arena and lead people in another area.

So you're concerned that athletes will just begin speaking up because they think it's something they have to do?
Yeah, because it's in vogue. But talk is cheap. What are you actually doing? Even with Colin Kaepernick, he's kneeled down, but what is he doing now? How is he continuing his fight? The follow-up is key in civil rights. Now everyone just talks, and in another month they'll do it again. But I don't see anyone doing anything.

What could these guys be doing better?
Well, I get out in the community, having an impact. And not just when the camera is there. I talk to kids about the importance of education, avoiding drugs, and having pride. Have pride in the way you dress, the way you talk, the way you walk, the way you carry yourself. Discipline is the thing that makes you a champion. Being a champion isn't about winning. I've seen a lot of so-called "champions" who are losers off the court or off the field. It takes more than just having a talent. You have to have intelligence, be a team player, and have a tenacious work ethic.

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